Sunday, June 30, 2013

Europe pt 2

Venice is lovely. It is a peculiar city because it exists for tourism and tourism only. Slightly over half of the population is tourists, and the residents of Venice all work in tourism, whether it's driving watertaxis, cleaning hotels, selling plastic gizmos by the Grande Canale, or manning the many gift shops, restaurants, and Rialto market stalls.

You can't go into Venice hating tourists, as so many people do. You can't “beat the tourist traps” and try to find the “real Venice,” because the real Venice exists for tourism, and if you are going to Venice, you're a tourist, too. I find it marvelous to listen to the babble of different languages around me, the different cultures and fashions and faces. People from all corners of the Earth have come to admire the beauty of one common thing, and that makes my little humanities-loving heart feel warm and fuzzy.



All that being said, I believe we have succeeded in escaping the tourist-traps of Venice as much as possible, in all the right ways. We're staying in a monastery which is far cheaper than any hotel in the city. We seem to have the place almost to ourselves, including the roof which offers a view of the neighborhood, the skyline of churches and palaces, and a bit of the Canale di San Marco. The desk clerk didn't even speak any English, so we got by speaking some motley stew of French, Italian, and Spanish. (Linguistics is awesome!) We're right next to Garibaldi Street, where the shopkeepers don't speak English either (unlike the Rialto markets) and there are actual grocery stores that sell cat food and other household necessities for the few who live and work in Venice. Since Venice is famous for having overpriced mediocre food, we took advantage of this. My favorite meal was our rooftop dinner of meat and cheese sandwiches, salad, and chocolate pudding, bought at the grocery store and assembled and eaten with a view of the city below us.

Of course, we did take advantage of the many gelato shops around the city. The lemon gelato wasn't quite as good as the lemon gelato in Heidelberg, but their hazelnut flavor made up for it.

I guess there were opportunities we missed. We didn't tour the basilica of San Marco, the famous church, as we didn't want to wait several hours in line in the sun.

We didn't take a gondola ride, as we saw them meandering through the narrow canals that we were exploring on foot through the cobbled streets on the inside, so we were pretty sure we weren't missing out on much.

We also took the vaporetto, a water bus that took us from the station to our hotel, that gave us a lovely tour of the canals and was far cheaper and less over-romanticized than the gondolas. I loved that it was basically a subway on water. Our method of seeing Venice was just to explore on foot, since it isn't a large city.











I'm sure there's so much in the city that you could spend a week in there with a tour guide. But for practical purposes, you can do Venice in a day. You need to walk through the San Marco Square and through the Rialto markets, but after that you've pretty much seen what you need to see. We arrived late on Thursday, took a vaporetto ride, and left my very feverish brother and my exhausted mother in the monastery, while my dad and I went to find dinner. The next day, with the exception of Alex who spent the entire day sleeping off his illness, we explored Venice on foot. By noon we felt like we had seen everything we wanted to. We traded in my mom who had a heat-headache for Alex who was slightly more alert and got paninis. The afternoon was too hot for all of us so we took a siesta until it was cooler out, at which point we did some more walking to show Alex what we had seen in the morning and finished with rooftop dinner and gelato. And that is how you do Venice in a day.


Then we took a train to Sanremo, a smallish Italian beach town. We lost a day in transit, as the trains were neither direct nor speedy. That night we ate real Italian pizza: a pesto one with pine nuts, one topped with grilled veggies, and one with cheese and mushrooms. My dad complained of the creaminess, but I found them far superior to Domino's. Here's the view from our hotel:


The next day we spent at the beach. I can't recommend Mediterranean beaches at all, except for the fact that they're beautiful and the water's warm. Unlike in California, Italian beaches are not all public, so although we could see miles of beautiful beach, only a very small portion was public, and the 23 steps of shore were packed with squalling children and cranky old people. My dad sat down in a chair to take off his shoes, and was immediately yelled at by an old Italian lady because you had to pay for use of the chairs. So we moved our shoes to the area without chairs, and started playing catch on the shore with the frisbee we'd brought.
(By the way, this is the frisbee my team signed for me!)


 We had to inch out of the free beach a little to get enough space, but figured no one would mind. Pretty soon the same Italian lady was back, though not because we were on the wrong beach: “No no no! Ees dangerrrous forr zee bamBINI!”

That's when I knew I'd turned French. A year ago I would've placated her: “I'm very sorry ma'am, we'll be going now.” But I threw up my hands and said “Yes, yes ma'am, whatever you say, ees verry dangerrous forr zee bambini!” with a mocking look. Not that it did any good, of course – this response isn't necessarily better than the one I would've given a year ago. But in France they would say I'm finally standing up for myself and saying what I think.

So we came back 30 minutes later in swimsuits this time, as the day had warmed up quickly, and this time we played catch in the water, far enough from shore that they didn't mind. The water was warm and lovely, and shallow enough that we could still stand and deep enough that we could dive for the disk. That is how we spent a significant part of the day in Sanremo, and will be a fond memory even though Italian beaches are crowded and full of grumpy people. The Pacific is unfortunately not warm enough to play frisbee in.

That night we ate at the hotel restaurant, and made the mistake of ordering their special discounted 3-course meal. One course would have been more than sufficient. It started with a pasta course, but the pesto sauce was so creamy that all of us had trouble stomaching it, and I was the only one who ate more than half of my plate (being, of course, accustomed to fatty European meals). The second course, the meat course, had so much cow on it that any one of our plates probably would have been sufficient for the four of us. It was good, but we were already full. Europeans don't believe in doggy bags, but we played the uncouth Americans and asked to have it wrapped up (which they did with paper plates and foil, since they don't have styrofoam boxes). We ate it for lunch the next day in rolls, and then for dinner in pasta. I guess we got our money's worth. For dessert we had tiramisu and lemon mousse, both of which we managed to finish off despite barely making a dent in the meat course. My dad claims he will never be able to eat pesto again. But at least we can say we experienced a fancy Italian meal.

The next day was another day lost in transit: a train to Menton to rent a car, and then the 5 hour drive to Méribel. It was a relief to find myself back in a country where I speak the language, where I am not afraid to ask for directions or talk to strangers. I did survive the most embarrassing shopping trip of my life, however, as we stopped to get groceries before driving up to the apartment in Méribel. First of all, we had missed the machine in the produce section where you are supposed to weigh and identify your produce and print out price stickers for them before you go to the checkout line, so we had to run back with our basket of produce and weigh it all while our checkout lady stalled. Then we discovered they didn't take visa, and I had to run to the car to get more cash from my brother, since we were almost clean out. The lady's smile was getting more and more strained with every delay, and I always feel bad for perpetuating the stereotype of rude clueless Americans. I feel responsible for my family when we're in France, as I have to translate for them, and so I felt bad for the checkout lady and the line behind us.

But once we arrived in Méribel, everything was like what a vacation really should be: relaxing, unstressful, with exactly what we want for food and sleeping schedules and activities. After so many meals in restaurants or with makeshift sandwiches or leftovers, it is lovely just to cook ourselves spaghetti with leftover beef, spicy tomato sauce, and lots of parmesan. We've spent our time going on hikes up the mountain – my dad hiked high enough up to find the soggy patch of snow we could see from our balcony – as well as reading, cooking, and playing catch with the frisbee I'm so glad I brought with us. The mountains are green, unrecognizable from what I saw in winter, but breathtakingly beautiful.



There are just a few people around, construction workers doing repairs and some mountain bikers, but mostly we have the woods and the mountains all to ourselves. Yesterday on a hike some friendly horses came right up to the edge of their enclosure and shoved their noses in my hands looking for treats, but we all jumped back in terror when one or the other of us touched the electric fence I hadn't noticed. It took me a moment to figure out what had happened – at first I thought someone had thrown a rock at my elbow, maybe the owner of the horses who didn't like me touching them. I don't know why I felt the shock mostly in my elbow, since it couldn't have been my elbow that brushed the fence. But after looking wildly around for my assaulter, I realized it had been the thin wire between the horses and me, and that my eyeballs were buzzing with electricity. Enough shock to scare a horse is definitely enough shock to make a human hurt, and I felt it in my elbow and my eyesockets for an hour or two after.

This is me right before touching that wire you can see by my hip:


That's about all I can say about our adventures in Méribel. It was lovely and relaxing if uneventful. On the 27th we drove to Paris (technically, to Roissy, the little city where the airport is) and checked in at the airport hotel for a night, which was far more luxurious than we would have expected. We also went to a Chinese restaurant, the first one I've seen in France. In the Vendée they aren't really big on ethnic food. Or ethnic anything. There's little to no diversity in the population, in food, in language, in culture... but at least in Paris there are plenty of immigrants. So we had good Chinese food, including one dish that seems Chinese-French fusion to me: fried frog legs. Despite the stereotypes, the French do not actually eat frogs very often. So this was the first time I had eaten frog legs, and it was from a Chinese restaurant in Paris. In this case, the stereotypes are absolutely true: frog legs do taste just like chicken!

Unfortunately, I had to take a different flight back from the rest of my family because my two-way ticket had already been reserved a year in advance, so while they had a convenient non-stop from Paris to San Francisco, I had to change planes in Reykjavik, Iceland, and in Boston. I left three hours before my parents and landed four hours after they did. I figured out the CDG airport without difficulty and got through the passport check in Iceland. The guys ahead of me in the line were clearly very proud of themselves when they said to the security guy that they'd been in Europe for a month. What world travellers! But when he asked me how many of the past 6 months I'd spent in Europe and I answered 10, he was startled and had to verify my visa. Hah. That's what it's like to really be a world traveller.

The Boston airport was slightly more problematic. My flights had nothing to do with each other and I even had to go through customs and then go back through security, changing airlines. The problem with this is that I couldn't find any way to get from one terminal to another, and it was the 5th person I asked who actually gave me good directions. Once I got to the other terminal (on a hard-to-find shuttle) I wandered around with another woman looking for the same flight since we couldn't even find departures, only arrivals. We had to find a hidden staircase and go up a floor before getting to check-in, security, and our gates. Now that is a badly-designed airport.

Taking off in Boston felt like finally leaving. I've already left so many times – I left high school when my parents came, I left France nearly a month ago, I left our friends in Germany to go touring on our own, I left France again in Paris... but now taking off in Boston was the last time I would have to leave, the last goodbye to my year abroad. The real end. So I wrote a poem, because what else can you do?



Where to now?

A midnight sun on a sea of clouds
Where to now? Where to now?
Heartsick laughter and euphoric tears
It's been so long, so long.

Where to now?

The cows are laughing and cooing goodbye
The pigeons moo hello
Hello Stranger. Hello.

On wings of metal we chase the sun
Across the sky and the ocean wide
To see a bridge on the other side –
I am here, but who am I?
It's been so long, so long.

The other sights are still the same
Boy meets girl and goes to school
The seagulls caw, the smell is sun,
And on the other side the children play too
Sing songs, chase balls

And life goes on. It's been so long, so long.

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